Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Fashion Round-Up: Menswear Spring 2014

 The band Nirvana in a 1993 issue of Mademoiselle.

Free your mind and the rest will follow.

With so many clothes to choose from, it is interesting that women's fashion has taken a turn towards the utilitarian. Take the relaxed-chic trend that strips fashion down to the bare basics, for example.

Then again, minimalism is just another relic of the 90s, a decade that has exploded onto the fashion scene with crop tops and grunge plaids popping up in the collections of 3.1 Phillip Lim and Dries Van Noten.

While women's fashion continues to march steadfastly in uniform, the boys just want to have fun. 

"Just 'clothes' is boring. We need more passion, more humanity."

Menswear is eager to break out of the mold. Modern men are often hampered by more strict sartorial rules when it comes to dressing. Just think of how boring the men are on the red carpet. No one cares to see another black tux, we want to see the dresses! 

Thom Browne Menswear Spring 2014

But maybe that is changing. Thom Browne, well known for taking the alternative route, turned out a gender bending toy soldier with fire engine-red lips and Joan Crawford shoulders. Browne "loves uniforms", but leave it to the the master of strange to take something as masculine as a soldiers uniform and give it an other-world feminine twist. Thom Browne manipulated fabrics to give the uniforms their often feminine shape. 

 Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2014

Next up we have Raf Simons who experimented with form. Raf says he wanted to go with the idea that men do not need to feel obligated to be dressed in a uniform. The collection, says Raf, is about the "freedom a man has to express himself."

Prada Menswear Spring 2014

Muccia Prada added women to her Menswear show, creating a cinematic love story set in a doomed paradise. Men walked down the catwalk in Hawaiian and palm printed shirts and silk-crepe jackets. Muccia described her menswear collection as "Love and War". Set to the soundtrack of Body Heat and Risky Business, this steamy wartime romance is headed for a boiling point. It is this kind of cinematic storytelling that helps inject emotion into the clothes. Muccia tells style.com that making "just 'clothes' is boring. We need more passion, more humanity."

Interestingly enough, Rag and Bone designer Marcus Wainwright described his 2014 Resort womenswear collection as just that. "Just clothes." While the lo-fi chic trend is a welcome respite from the fussy and overwrought, it is important to remember that the purpose of a fashion is to tell a story;a story that makes us burn with desire. 

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